Experts explain what dry cleaning is and how it really works

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Chances are, you have at least a few items in your closet that require dry cleaning. From a customer standpoint, dry cleaning is fairly simple — you just drop off dirty garments and then go back and pick them up when they’re freshly cleaned and wrapped in those plastic garment bags. But what exactly is dry cleaning?

Unlike throwing your clothes in a washing machine with some laundry detergent, dry cleaning is a bit more involved and is often used to clean more delicate pieces and fabrics that might get damaged if washed more traditionally. For a better understanding of the entire process, we turned to dry cleaning and textile experts to explain exactly what goes on when you drop your clothes off — plus, they recommend which items are worth dry cleaning and tips on how to ensure your garments are cleaned properly.

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A washing machine uses water, detergent and motion to get clothes clean. “But dry cleaning is a cleaning process that uses a liquid solvent instead of water to remove dirt, stains, and oils from fabric,” says James Joun, co-founder and chief operating officer of Rinse, an on-demand laundry and dry cleaning pickup and delivery company. “It is a process that is gentler on delicate materials and helps maintain a garment’s original shape, texture, and longevity.”

The solvents used in dry cleaning are made of fabric-safe chemicals. “When applied, they clean the surface of the garment by dissolving and lifting dirt, oils, and stains without soaking into the fibers like water,” says Frej Lewenhaupt, co-founder and chief product officer of textile care company Steamery.

Dry cleaning is a multistep process that gently cleans a garment and removes any stains. According to Joun, when you drop off your items to be dry-cleaned, here's what happens:

• Garment inspection and tagging: Your item should be carefully inspected for stains, loose buttons, missing embellishments, or damage. Then, a tracking tag is attached to ensure the garment is processed correctly and can be reassembled after cleaning.

• Pre-treatment spotting (stain removal): Any visible stains are pre-treated using specialized stain-removal techniques based on the type of fabric and stain composition. For example, dry cleaners will use tannin removers for wine stains or will use enzymes for certain food stains.

• Dry cleaning: Garments are placed in a large dry-cleaning machine, which uses a solvent that removes dirt and oils. While normal washing uses water to flush out dirt, the dry cleaning solvent cleans without saturating the fabric with water. The solvent is continuously filtered and purified to ensure the best cleaning results. The same machine can remove the solvent through heating, and the garments emerge from the machine completely dry.

• Post-treatment and pressing: Any remaining stains are treated again using spotting methods and potentially dry cleaned. Most garments, however, emerge completely clean and are then pressed, steamed, or reshaped to restore its original look and remove wrinkles.

• Final inspection, assembly and bagging: The garment undergoes a final quality check before assembly. Once the garment is cleaned, it's placed in protective packaging that shields it from debris during handling and delivery.

The easiest way to determine if clothing should be dry cleaned is to look at its care tag. If it says “dry clean only,” you should follow those instructions. “Garments that say this tend to feature fabrics that have difficulty maintaining their texture when they absorb water and then are exposed to high heat (i.e. machine dried),” says Joun. “Items that say ‘dry clean recommended,’ can be washed at home. However, we recommend professional cleaning to help maintain their look for much longer.”

Have items that don’t have tags? Or perhaps you just want a basic understanding of the types of items that dry cleaning is best for. You should dry clean wool, velvet, silk, leather suede or fur garments, as well as suits or items made with intricate beading or embellishments, says Lewenhaupt.

“Washing a garment that should be dry cleaned can lead to shrinkage, a distorted shape, and changes to the fabric’s texture,” says Lewenhaupt. “For example, a wool sweater might lose its shape and size due to the fibers tightening.” Skipping the proper cleaning technique can also alter the color of your items. “Some dyes used in professional garments are not water soluble and can lead to color loss,” Joun says. “Washing them incorrectly can cause colors to fade unevenly or bleed onto other fabrics.”

Trying to clean an item at home that should be dry-cleaned can also lock in stains. “If a stain isn’t treated properly, washing in hot water or drying can cause it to permanently set into the fabric, making removal nearly impossible,” says Joun. “Oil-based stains — like salad dressing or makeup — are non water-soluble and instead require oil-based solvents which dry cleaning provides.” And if you accidentally wash a “dry clean only” item at home, avoid putting it in the dryer. “Instead, bring it to a professional dry cleaner as soon as possible to see if they can reverse some of the damage,” Joun adds.

A few tricks can help you get the most out of your dry cleaning experience and ensure your garments are cared for as well as possible. Both of our experts agreed that communicating with your dry cleaner is key. Here are the things they suggest you chat about when dropping off an item:

• Point out stains: “Let your cleaner know if there are specific stains on the garment and what caused them,” says Joun. “Different stains require different treatments, and some stains can become invisible over time but darken later.” By giving them more details, your dry cleaner can customize stain treatment to remove the spot best.

• Mention delicate fabrics or special features: Though it may seem like they can just look at whatever you bring in, it’s helpful to let them know if your garment is made of silk, cashmere, or has beading, lace, or embroidery. This will flag to the cleaner that they may need to take extra precautions, says Joun.

• Note any loose buttons, tears or repairs needed: “Dry cleaners often offer minor repairs, so letting them know about a loose hem, missing button, or small tear allows them to fix it during the cleaning process,” says Joun. Even if they don’t provide repairs, it lets them know to be extra careful around those areas.

• Fess up to at-home attempts: Don’t feel bashful if you tried to clean an item at home or treat a stain. Be honest and mention what products you used, says Joun. “Some DIY stain removers can react with dry cleaning solvents, leading to unexpected discoloration.”

At NBC Select, we work with experts with specialized knowledge and authority based on relevant training and experience. We also ensure all expert advice and recommendations are made independently and without undisclosed financial conflicts of interest.

• James Joun is the co-founder and chief operating officer of Rinse, an on-demand laundry and dry cleaning pickup and delivery company.
• Frej Lewenhaupt is the co-founder and chief product officer of textile care company Steamery.

Bethany Heitman is a contributor at NBC Select and a journalist who regularly covers beauty, home and lifestyle. For this story, she interviewed experts on the process of dry cleaning.

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