Ten international climbers led by a renowned Nepal-born mountaineer are missing after an avalanche struck Broad Peak in northern Pakistan, one of the world’s highest mountains.
The Alpine Club of Pakistan received initial reports that the avalanche struck the team led by Nirmal Purja and the climbers have been out of communication since then, club Vice President Karrar Haidri said in a statement late Thursday.
The expedition includes five Nepalese climbers: Pakistani mountaineer Sohail Sakhi of Hunza, Omani climber Nathira, American climber Mallory Geis, a Chinese climber identified as Wang and another foreign climber, Haidri said.
A State Department spokesperson confirmed Friday that an American has died as a result of an avalanche in Pakistan, extending the agency’s deepest condolences to the victims and to the families of all those affected. The spokesperson declined to name the victim, citing privacy and other considerations, and said no additional details were immediately available.
“The U.S. Embassy is working with local authorities and stands ready to provide consular assistance,” the spokesperson said. “The Trump Administration has no higher priority than the safety and security of Americans.”
The club’s president, Maj. Gen. Irfan Arshad, and its senior leaders are in contact with government officials to facilitate an immediate search-and-rescue operation.
The club said every effort was being made to mobilize helicopters and other rescue resources quickly, subject to weather and operational conditions.
Nirmal Purja, whom the club identified by a second name, Nims Dai, is a Nepal-born British citizen who scaled the world’s 14 highest peaks in 189 days in 2019, holding a record for the fastest climb until a Norwegian woman and her Nepali Sherpa guide set a new record in 2023. Purja’s climbs were made into a popular Netflix documentary, “14 Peaks: Nothing Is Impossible.”
The 26,401-foot Broad Peak in the Karakoram range is the world’s 12th-highest mountain. Pakistan is home to several top mountain peaks, and climbers flock from all over the world to attempt to scale the summits.
“The Alpine Club of Pakistan is closely monitoring the situation and coordinating with all concerned stakeholders,” the statement said. It added that the club stands in solidarity with the climbers’ families and the international mountaineering community.
