I’m going to confess; I think I’m falling in love. With Canada, if you must know. The specific object of my affection? The northernly province of Quebec. Let me tell you about the encounter that sealed the deal.
I recently had occasion to visit Mt. Tremblant, a ski resort and charming, laid-back mountain town that lies an hour and a half north of Montreal in an area called the Laurentians. Admittedly, my initial excitement was dashed after a quick visit to Weather.com. I lucked out by hitting one of the coldest weekends on recent record—40 below—but was assured that was far below the mountain's average winter temp. I scrambled for my warmest woolens. Donning four layers and lugging many more, I embarked on my mid-winter getaway but couldn't help but wonder what a Tremblant ski trip would be like in warmer weather. Unlike all other resorts in the eastern part of North America, Mt. Tremblant’s ski season lasts well into April, when it’s possible to spend half a day on the slopes and the other half on the golf course—there are seven of them, all world-class with green’s fees starting at just $35.
The adventure officially began with an easy charter flight from New York City when we arrived at Mt. Tremblant’s brand new international airport (yes, you can fly direct from the Big Apple for $267 round-trip and from Boston for $214), which looked more like Grizzly Adams’ log cabin, albeit smartly appointed with an Alpine motif, than any structure adjacent to a tarmac I’d ever seen. Inside, the airport’s friendly owner greeted us with a glass of chilled Cuvee de Diable, a honey wine produced in the region, and ushered us through customs, which was a painless breeze—we just flashed our US passports. What could be better? The whole experience, which was such a welcome change from the harsh interrogations I’d recently received at other ports of entry, managed set a warm tone that would last the rest of the weekend, although I suspected I’d still need a sweater or two.
Tremblant charms the ski pants right off you!
For decades now, Mt. Tremblant has been a favorite of skiers, nature-lovers, and families seeking a comfortable place to visit without spending a fortune. Since the late-1930s, when a wealthy American from Philly in search of gold was so taken by the scenery that he decided to develop a resort town so that others could appreciate the region too, Tremblant has come into its own, but only really blossomed over the past 12 years. The area is now owned and operated under the canopy of mega-real estate corp Intrawest, which so far has pumped $850 million into Tremblant’s development. And it shows, in a good way. Leave it to the Canadians to do it right—there’s a respect for nature, carefully planned growth, and none of the Disneyfication you might find at similar resort initiatives in the US.
The sloping village, with its teal and red rooftops, is strictly pedestrian—a little detail that gives it the charm of Old Europe and makes for a hushed, relaxed atmosphere. It’s also a safe place to let the kids run loose. In the shops, restaurants, and hotels you hear French and English in equal amounts. The ability of locals to flip-flop between languages is really quite something. The entire cobblestone town is eminently walkable, and there’s a central square with an outdoor bonfire (the homey scent of burning wood wafts down the hillside), and everything you might need or want is just minutes away.
Most of Tremblant’s dozen or so hotels are ski in-ski out, and there’s a terrific range of properties from budget to luxury. While you could certainly spend upwards of $300 a night at the exquisite boutique Hotel Quintessence (called just “Hotel Q” locally), there are plenty of mid-range options, and a good many condos for rent. I stayed at the Marriott Residence Inn, which was conveniently located to the ski rental shop and lifts. My suite was not fancy but it was warm and comfortable and included a full kitchen and even a fireplace. I also had a great view of the lower part of town, the frozen lake beyond, and the gondola that skimmed the hotel’s roof. Also, Tremblant regularly sells some terrifically economical ski packages. For spring its offering three night's accommodation at Sunstar property and a three-day lift ticket for just $69 per person per night based on double occupancy—just $210 for a long ski weekend. For $12 more per night, you can have your pick of hotels. Call 866/836-3030 to make a reservation.
Skiier's paradise
I was surprised and humbled to learn that Mt. Tremblant is considered my many expert swooshers to be the Number One ski resort in the eastern North America. (If you’re loyal to Killington, Stowe or Sugarloaf, then I’d encourage you to branch out north of the border.) Last year, Ski magazine even rated Mt. Tremblant tops for service, lodging, and on-mountain food, beating out far ritzier and developed resorts as Aspen and Vail. Who knew? The mountain itself has some 94 trails spanning its north and south sides, 13 lifts, and all sorts of glades, moguls, and even a 17-foot high super pipe for skiers and snowboarders looking for an extra challenge and thrill. Tremblant’s trails run the gamut in terms of difficulty, and its lift tickets are far cheaper than what you'll find in the US: $39 for three-day lift-ticket for kids, $70 for adults.
Mostly I stuck to the blue trails, solid intermediate slopes that were well groomed and pleasantly free of fast-moving traffic. After hearing how good the ski school was, I decided to take a lesson and brush up on technique. My instructor, a kindly man in his 60s named Gilles, in just a few short hours gave me some terrific tips on form, and by the end of the day I was feeling more fluid and natural than ever before on a pair of skis.
Mother Nature's home
While it was tempting to try and perfect my new-found techniques the next day, I decided to exchange my lift ticket for a guided snowshoeing trip through the nearby forests of Mt. Tremblant. Was I ever glad I did. At the central activities center, I joined a small but eager group of women for what would turn out to be the weekend’s most enjoyable experience. We met our accommodating guide Yves Kirouac, who helped us on with the equipment. In case you were wondering, the days of strapping tennis rackets to your feet for a romp in the woods are gone—they’ve been replaced by flexible and lightweight metal frames. (Yves' company, Kerouac Destination Nature, can be reached at: 819/425-1377.)
It was clear from our first snowy steps that Yves’ knowledge about the natural world around us ran deep. His enthusiasm was infectious. Before long we were sweaty and breathless running around chasing deer, chewing yellow birch bark (it tastes like mint gum!), and identifying porcupine droppings. We must have looked like curious overgrown gaggle of Girl Scouts. Hoping to treat their weary muscles, the rest of the group headed off to Spa Scandinave, located on the outskirts of town, for a soak in one of the bubbling outdoor mineral springs. I was very sorry I’d forgotten my bathing suit.
Local flavor—a taste of French and Quebecois traditions
Expect to work up a good hunger while you’re out in the woods, on the slopes, or window shopping around town. If you can resist being seduced by the French pastry, chocolate, or crepe places that dot the village (they seemed to wink at me every time I passed), try to hold out for dinner and head straight to La Grappe a Vin, cozy and very special restaurant housed in one of the village’s oldest buildings. There, the owners and hosts, Sylvie Lebel and Claude Bernier, welcome you as if you were dining in their home. Sounds like a cliche but it's true.
Our small group was ushered upstairs to a rustic, wooden-eaved room and treated to poetry on a plate—literally. Bernier’s description of his “three variations on the foie gras theme” appetizer was delivered as haiku. I opted instead for a small but deliciously rich onion and nutmeg tarte tatin with anise and carmelized sweetbreads ($11) to start, followed by what may have been the most buttery and flavorful piece of meat I’ve ever had the joy of biting into: filet mignon of caribou grilled on maple with pear and coffee jus accompanied by elderberry chutney (a whopping $42 but worth it). After several hours of leisurely consumption, we were lulled into dessert, which for me consisted of several bites of the sinful molten chocolate cake with black cherry and port center accented by a sprightly basil ice cream ($6). Needless to say, I rolled home with every intention of hitting the slopes early to get a head-start on those calories.
Tremblant has loads of dining options, from the casual mountain top cafeteria where they serve poutine (a stick-to-your-ribs dish of fries, curd cheese and gravy—a dieter’s worst nightmare and clearly an acquired local taste) to upscale steakhouses like La Forge, which does a fine grill but is an even better bet for its lively bar scene. There’s also a handful of international restaurants in Tremblant to choose from, in case you can’t live without an enchilada, and of course, burgers can be found on a good number of menus too. My favorite dining experiences by far were at restaurants that relied on local ingredients and celebrated French and Quebecois culinary traditions with verve.
Tremblant is for the dogs, Siberian huskies to be exact
My visit culminated with a moonlit sled dog ride, and a special homemade Quebecois dinner in a traditional long house teepee similar to the kind built by the native AmeriIndians who lived in the region for centuries before the French came on the scene. The Universe of Sled Dogs, a friendly, family-run operation about 40 minutes outside of Tremblant, offers a safe, educational and exhilarating look into the lives of sled dogs—in this case 180 Siberian Huskies, who live to pull and are not fazed by the cold in the least. And, may I add, are very small.
We arrived in the dark, were outfitted with extra layers in the warming hut, and given a quick introduction to sled driving. The French commands took a little getting used to, and so did the brakes, but before long my sled partner and I were zooming over fields with our headlamps lighting the way. I’m not sure we were natural “mushers” but it was fun, and the experience was a first for me. After another heavy dose of Quebecois hospitality, we left with our stomachs full of maple sugar pie.
The outfit has a variety of excursion and sledding choices that range from one-hour rides ($44 for adults, $29 for kids) to day-long rides into the Rough Matawin Reserve, which includes a full dinner ($119 for adults, $81 for kids). All rates and information can be found on its website: www.theuniverseofsleddogs.com.
Year-round wonderland for all
There are loads of other activities in and around the Tremblant area—horseback riding, ice climbing, sleigh rides, and snowmobiling to name a few. In town, there’s an indoor water park for kids, and ample opportunity to shop til you drop. Mt. Tremblant is simultaneously ready-made for romantics as well as for families. Its well-rounded appeal cannot be denied, nor can its bargains. For Americans looking for Old World charms, new world facilities and an affordable vacation with a favorable exchange rate, Tremblant is your answer. And lest you think the season ends when the snow melts and the chair-lift stops running, think again. During the summer months the village’s charms shine just as bright. Guided hikes, white water rafting on Rouge River, canoeing on Devil’s River, and even Acrobranche, where you swing from the trees like Tarzan are just a few of the nearby warm-weather activities. No matter where you stay it’s an easy step from your hotel room into the great outdoors. On Mt. Tremblant, the air is clear and the scenery stirring. Go, and you may just fall in love too.
A good deal of information on Mt. Tremblant can be found on the village’s website: www.tremblant.com. There, you can browse online brochures and book your hotel room directly through the Internet. You can also make reservations for all the hotels by calling a single number: 866/836-3030. Other specific information and prices can be found by following the links below. One word of note, be sure to convert Canadian dollars to US--today's exchange rate is US$1 to $1.33 Canadian.
For information on charters from Boston ($214 round-trip) or New York City ($267 round-trip) to Tremblant International Airport, call: 866/836-3030. (There are also more expensive flights from Philadelphia and Long Island.)
Bon voyage!
{Editor's Note: Have you ever been to Mt. Tremblant? Do you have a money-saving hint, tip, or anecdote that would be helpful to other travelers? We'd love to hear it and possibly reprint it in our letters to the editor column. Simply to send a letter to our editors.}
