The cat’s out of the bag! Matt’s arrived in Moscow in a veil of secrecy worthy of the KGB to give you a glimpse of Russia’s great capital city. Since shaking off its Communist past 13 years ago, Moscow has been reinventing itself, and its modern identity—part European, part-Central Asian—is more inviting than ever to the intrepid traveler, even those on a budget.
Peel back the red tape
While it’s possible to plan and book your own trip to Moscow, it’s often easier—not to mention more affordable—to go with an organized tour (click here or scroll down for info on that); the Russian government’s new visa policies generate a good deal of red tape for those trying to get to Red Square, so we recommend letting someone else take care of the paperwork.
And to be sure, a certain amount of skittishness is normal in light of last week's bombing in the Moscow subway. However, the US State Department (Hotline for American Travelers:202/647-5225) has yet to issue a travel warning to those going to Russia. And while we don't want to suggest that everyone throw caution to the wind, we do want to encourage you to keep Russia on your list of great travel destinations.
Whether you visit Russia now or in the future, we promise you you'll be seduced by its fascinating and sordid past. It’s everywhere, and you won’t have to look under onion domes to find it. “Moscow’s history is just so tangible,” says Joan Fernald, an American who studied and lived in the city for years. “You can still visit centuries-old bazaars and the exact spot on the city’s fringe where Peter the Great would falcon while he kept and eye on his battlefields below—Kolomenskoe. It’s simply incredible.”
Doing it on your own
Before you can tread to the tzars’ favorite stomping grounds, or for that matter duck into one of the city’s swanky new nightclubs for a vodka-loaded cocktail, you’ll first have to fly to Moscow. The majority of flights going to Russia’s capital leave from New York City, with the average flight being nine hours long. Three carriers offering regularly scheduled and decently priced flights are Aeroflot (www.aeroflot.com, 888/340-6400), KLM (www.klm.com or www.nwa.com, 800/447-4747) and Finnair (www.finnair.com, 800/950-5000), which typically makes a stop in Helsinki before embarking on a second hour-long leg to Moscow.
A recent search for flights from New York to Moscow in February revealed a best price of $532 on Finnair. However, when we inquired with Eastern Tours (www.traveltorussia.com, 800/339-6967 or 212/683-8930), a New York City-based company that specializes in travel to Russia, we got the much cheaper price of $369 on KLM, a promotion that’s good for travel through the end of the month. Don’t worry if you don’t live in or near the Big Apple; Eastern Tours is also selling roundtrip tickets to Moscow from other US cities:
- $388—Washington D.C.
- $399—Miami
- $439—Boston
- $459—Chicago
- $498—San Francisco
- $499—Atlanta
- $529—Dallas
Moscow sleeps for all price ranges
Once on the ground, you will need a place to lay your head in Moscow. Not surprisingly, there’s a range of hotels to choose from, each with its own advantages. Here are a few popular top contenders for a variety of budget classes:
Hotel Izmailovo is housed in four towers that were built for the 1980 Olympics. This modern property is six subway stops from the heart of Moscow—Red Square—and just a stone’s throw from the largest flea market in Russia, where they sell everything from rugs to hand painted nesting dolls of US presidents. Double rooms range between $65-75.
is another hotel with rates that will appeal to those watching their wallets. This centrally located and serviceable property has a whopping 6,000 rooms, many of which are on the “cozy” side—but who cares if your room overlooks Red Square. Double rooms go for $75-$100 depending on your view.
is a solid choice if you’re more comfortable staying at name-brand hotel, and you seek impeccable service. This modern property, where doubles start at $180, is Moscow’s best hotel when it comes to quality of service and friendly staff.
On the banks of the Moskva River, this hotel, which has won awards for “keeping up Moscow’s hospitality traditions,” offers impressive panorama views of Moscow and accommodating stays. Doubles are $95.
is a former noble house with rooms looking onto the Kremlin. In 1918, it officially became a hotel and even hosted Lenin. Today, it’s part of the Le Meridien hotel group, and offers all sorts of luxurious amenities. This is a splurge choice with double rooms averaging $200.
was constructed in 1913 to appeal to businessmen, and not much has changed. Suites sprawl over as many as seven rooms, one of which was reserved exclusively for traveling pets. The formal dining room boasts a soaring stain glassed ceiling that’s not to be missed. There’s also a full-featured health club and pool, and it’s a short walk to the Bolshoi Ballet. Another pricey choice, doubles start at $220.
The language of universal friendship
With the Russian language and alphabet so different from our own, the prospect of visiting Moscow can seem daunting for first-timers. There is, however, a large and reliable infrastructure devoted to making visitors feel comfortable and assistance often comes in the form of a translator. If you book a tour, bi-lingual agents will greet you at the airport and escort you to your hotel. But it’s not always hired staff that lends a helping hand. Moscow residents frequently go out of their way to assist lost tourists clutching upside-down maps. The city’s pervasive communal spirit extends to visitors, and if you’re lucky enough, you may even be invited to dinner.
"What charmed me into a lifelong connection to Russians was their sense of community. It doesn't matter who you are or where you come from," says Fernald, who cultivated many deep friendships while in the Russian capital. "I learned that for many Muscovites, there are no boundaries when it comes to relationships."
Sights to behold
Whether you’re making friends or sightseeing, Moscow offers travelers a once-in-a-lifetime chance to experience its history on a grand scale. From its Byzantine empires to its Bolshevik reign, Russia’s past is littered with passionate and eccentric personalities, brutal rulers, and everyday characters the have shaped the former super power through the centuries. While visiting Moscow you’ll want to take full advantage of all there is to see. A terrific way to do just that is to join a tour, which brings us to our original point: it’s easier to go to Moscow with a package vacation, one that takes care of all major aspects of travel, including transportation and admission to museums and other points of interest. So for those who want (or need) this type of helping hand, we've vetted a number of well-priced tours below. Be sure to choose a package that also leaves you ample time to snoop around on your own.
Experienced tour operator Eastern Tours is offering a package vacation for the low price of $699. A trip that includes legs to both Moscow and St. Petersburg, its “Land of Tzars” offers a very complete picture of contemporary and historic Russia—and the price cannot be beat. Let’s break it down.
Based on double occupancy, the $699 per person price tag includes round-trip airfare from New York City (JFK) to St. Petersburg via Helsinki on Finnair. Once in St. Petersburg, a fairytale-like city built on 101 islands connected by over 300 bridges, you will spend four nights in one of two three-star hotels located in the Old City: the 10-year-old Hotel Okhtinskaya or Hotel Neptun, a Best Western property. Breakfast is included, and so is a guided sightseeing tour of St. Petersburg and the Hermitage Museum, the opulent former residence of the tzars.
Next, you will take an overnight train to Moscow for a three-day stay at the Hotel Alpha, a three-star hotel located near the Moscow flea market and a short subway ride from Red Square. Travelers will also have a chance to join a guided tour to the city’s most popular sights, including Lenin’s Tomb, Red Square and St. Basil’s Cathedral. Singles should add $145 to the basic vacation price, which is good for Thursday departures before Mar. 15, 2004. If you want to spend extra nights in either city you can do so at a cost of $80-$100 per double. In March, the price jumps to $799 for travel between Mar. 15 and Apr. 15, 2004. When figuring out your expenditures for this trip, be sure to add the company’s charge for visa processing ($145) and taxes ($149) into your final tally. Eastern Tours is able to supply airfare from any gateway in the US for an additional cost (price it out; if you feel you can get to the Big Apple more cheaply on your own, it may make sense for you to join the tour in NYC).
For more information or if you’re ready to book a trip to Russia, contact Eastern Tours (www.traveltorussia.com) at 800/339-6967 or 212/683-8930. Please keep in mind that this is a small company and the line is often busy, but don't despair—keep trying. Eventually you'll get a human being on the phone. Or, submit your request by email at [email protected].
From Russia with love--$999
The Russian package being offered by the Connecticut-based Crown Travel (www.crown-travel.com) may not undercut that of Eastern Tours, but it’s a good alternative. Priced from a cool $999 (per person based on double occupancy), its “From Russia with Love” vacation includes roundtrip airfare on Lufthansa from New York City to Russia’s majestic capital, transfers accompanied by a personal greeter/translator, five nights divided between two first-class properties: the Katerina Iris in Moscow and the Pribaltiskaya in St. Petersburg, overnight first-class accommodations on a sleeper train, and breakfast daily. But wait—there’s more (and here's why the price tag is higher). The trip also includes city tours in both locations, as well as guided visits to the famed Red Square, St. Basil’s Cathedral, and last but certainly not least, the Hermitage Museum. A key detail about this flexible trip is that its “hosted,” a term that means you can customize your stay, add nights, day-trip to other cities if you so choose. Crown Travel even takes care of all of your visa paperwork for Russia—no small task. Add-on prices from other US cities are as follows:
- Add $140 from: Washington D.C. (Finnair)
- Add $172 from: Boston, Philadelphia (Lufthansa)
- Add $263 from: Detroit, Chicago (Finnair)
Crown Travel’s package vacation is good for travel until Mar. 25, 2004, after which it increases by $300 for travel in April. Tickets can be purchased up to seven days before your departure date. Single travelers pay $300 supplement, and those wishing to stay on at the hotel(s) will pay $75 additional per double, and $120 additional per single per night. And, to really mix things up Finnair, at a cost of $75, is allowing stopovers in Helsinki. Accommodating and informative Crown Travel (www.crown-travel.com) can be reached for information or reservations at 800/853-6453.
We hope we haven’t overwhelmed you with information—there’s a lot to consider when traveling to Russia, and Moscow in particular. The city is grand and wild, and in case you were wondering, it’s come a long way since the days when bread lines snaked around every corner. The Cold War is but a memory now. Walk the streets and you’ll notice that an unabashed capitalist veneer coats the “new” Moscow, its entrepreneurial residents outwardly giddy with greed, yes, but also with hope for Russia’s future. All while not everyone is profiting from Russia's changes, many agree that's it's an improvement over the dark days of its not-so-distant past.
{Editor's Note: Have you ever been to Moscow or traveled through Russia? Do you have a money-saving hint, tip, or anecdote that would be helpful to other travelers? We'd love to hear it and possibly reprint it in our letters to the editor column. Simply to send a letter to our editors.}
