I began flying a trans-Pacific route to China earlier this year and had my first three-day layover in Beijing in April. The capital of the most populous nation on earth, Beijing is a bustling city with some amazing history and culture — and some serious problems. It will be interesting to see how it pulls itself together for next year's Summer Olympic Games.
Let's start with some of the pros.
- The U.S. dollar is strong, which certainly is not the case in most foreign countries. And I mean really strong. For example, you can dine out and get a six-course meal with drinks for approximately $3 a person.
- There are many amazing tourist attractions to visit, such as the Forbidden City, the Great Wall and the Terra-Cotta Soldiers, and there are more museums and cultural exhibits than you can see in a lifetime.
- Shopping — Have you ever noticed that most merchandise items have a "Made in China" notice affixed to them somewhere? Well, here you are in the land of cheap manufactured goods, and there are deals aplenty.
- The city is in the middle of an upgrade. Along every busy road you'll see rows and rows of boxed flowers. Thousands of young trees are being planted to improve air quality and to minimize the effects of sandstorms. Hundreds of buildings are under construction. I can't imagine they will be completed in time for next summer's festivities, but maybe the Chinese will prove me wrong.
- The cuisine — the price is right and so is the taste. "Peking Duck" is a must, but I was leery of the "Scorpion and Cricket Shish Kabob."
Now for some of the cons.
- Traffic constantly blocks the streets. Many new streets are being built for the upcoming summer games but for the time being, the construction only adds to the congestion.
- The smog is shocking. It clouds the air and hovers over the horizon, so that every day of touring was followed by sore eyes, itchy throat, congested sinuses and the well-known "China cough." Is this a healthy environment for the biggest sporting event in the world? There are rumors that factories will shut down months before the Olympics, but you wonder how people cope on an everyday basis.
- You also have to wonder about human rights. I won't comment on a subject I don't know a lot about, but I did find it interesting that my 21-year-old language guide, who lived 10 miles outside of Beijing at the time of the Tiananmen Square massacre in 1989, had not heard about this event. He told us that unfavorable news did not spread quickly in China.
If you are planning a trip for the Olympics or just for a vacation, here are some tips that can help you enjoy your stay more.
1. Get a massage. There is nothing quite like a full-body massage after a 14-hour flight — or even just an extensive foot massage. And where else can you get a two-hour hour rubdown for just $13? Be sure to ask your hotel for a reputable practitioner.
2. Be a tourist. Go to the Great Wall (go early and avoid weekends if possible) and the Forbidden City (get a student guide but haggle the price down), and go to the Night Market and see Beijing lit up at night. These are excursions that you will remember for a lifetime.
3. Get relief. Bring your sinus, congestion and cold medications to battle the sometimes nasty environment, especially if you are sensitive to pollution.
4. H-2-Uh-Oh. Stick to bottled water even in your hotel; most accommodations do not have potable water in the rooms. This goes for brushing your teeth, too. You should even exercise caution when showering — remember to keep your mouth closed!
5. Shop till you drop. Take a relatively empty suitcase and buy most of your clothes after you get to China. The big markets I know of are the Pearl, Silk, Toy and Night Markets, but wherever you shop, you will have fun and your dollar will go far. For more info on shopping, take a look at my earlier column "Tales from the China Shop."
6. Going abroad. Get mentally prepared for the infamous squatting toilets. It's not so bad once you get the hang of it. (Easy for me to say — I am a guy.)
7. Taxi. Make sure the cab you get into has a meter; otherwise the driver will take you for a ride in more ways than one.
8. Venture out. Try to minimize eating and drinking at hotel restaurants and bars. These are usually costly, they lack local flavor, and the patrons are mostly other tourists. Get out, explore and mingle with the masses.
One curious note: On the flight over to China there were not many babies, but the return flight had quite a few. I quickly learned that many American couples make the trek to China in search of adoptions. In my observation, they fly out with joy and hope in their hearts, and fly back with reality screaming in their ears.
The Olympic Games tend to change a city and sometimes not for the better. It will be interesting to see Beijing after its cosmetic upgrades have been completed. So far, I am optimistic, and I hope to see you at the Olympics!
